When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.
“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.
Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.
Lena is a digital design expert with over a decade of experience in UI/UX and creative technology, passionate about sharing innovative design solutions.